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这些年来，时尚潮流来了又去，戴帽子的习惯似乎也在不经意间发生着改变。回顾20世纪60-80年代的老照片，还可以看到许多赵本山同款鸭舌帽，和年轻人青睐的草绿色仿军帽。但在几十年后的今天，已经很难找到真正的“群众性”帽子了。



如今，除了军人、警察、医护等职业需要，或是取得学位时履行拨穗仪式，大多数人在正式场合通常不会戴帽子。平时如果戴帽子，主要也是为了保暖、防晒的实际需要，或是和衣服搭配，甚至用来掩盖没洗头等情况。这一习惯和秉承“冠礼”的古代似乎正好相反。

 

为什么现代人，特别是男性不如古人爱戴帽子了？

 

“冠”与“巾”：构成古人头上的风景

 

大概为了修饰脸型，今天的古装剧男主角（清代背景除外）不是潇洒地披散着及腰长发，就是活泼地扎着高马尾，但在现实中，古人并不会以这些发型示人。看似简单的“衣冠”二字，在中国传统文化中被赋予了特殊意义，既是缙绅阶层的代指，又能衍生出文明礼教的含义。

  

究其根源，在宗法制度森严的古代中国，自上而下都需秉承服饰礼制，头上的帽子和身上的着装不仅要满足实际的保暖、装饰功能，更是不同社会地位的直观体现。《礼记》载：

 

“礼义之始在于正容体，齐颜色，顺辞令……故冠而后服备，服备而后容体正，颜色齐，辞令顺。故曰:冠者礼之始也。”



从西周到清代初年，冠帽或巾帻始终是华夏成年男子头顶必备之物。与之对应的“散发”，甚至成为放浪形骸的代称，如袁闳“散发绝世”、李白“散发弄扁舟”等。

 

《说文》对冠的字形和字意做出诠释：

 

“冠，絭也，所以絭发，弁冕之总名也。”

 

冠中的“元”不仅表声，也有“首”的含义，表示冠的作用。《释名》谓：“冠，贯也，所以贯韬发也。”早在周代，“加冠之礼”已经成为贵族男子专属的成年仪式，在二十岁（天子、诸侯可提前至十二岁）举行，改变儿童时梳的“总角”发型，将头发聚拢在头顶束成发髻，髻上戴冠。冠需要用横穿发髻的“簪”和系在下巴下的“缨”来固定，“气昂昂头戴簪缨”便成为显贵者的代指。孔子弟子子路（仲由）任卫国大夫孔悝的邑宰，因反对孔悝叛乱而遭到袭击，交战中冠缨被打断，子路说：“君子死而冠不免。”于是正冠结缨而死，体现出“冠”对于彰显士大夫身份和气节的意义。

 


《后汉书·舆服志》记载的冠式有十九种，后来历代冠式更为多样，形制各异。从周代到西汉，冠的形制还比较小，装饰性大于实用性，《淮南子》总结为“寒不能暖，风不能障，暴不能蔽”。东汉时，冠的形制变大，文官戴“进贤冠”，公侯冠上有三梁，官职越低，梁数越少。武官则戴“武弁大冠”，无需插簪固定。

 


作为礼冠的“冕”，曾是帝王、诸侯、公卿所戴的礼帽，后来专指皇冠。冕由束发的冕圈“武”、绕在颔下固定的冕带“紘”、覆在冕圈上的冕板“延”、延前垂下的玉珠串“旒”组成，周天子之冕十二旒（十二根丝绳，分别串十二枚玉珠），诸侯九旒、上大夫七旒、下大夫五旒。

 



在“礼不下庶人”的古代，平民百姓不能戴冠，但也不能直接袒露着头顶，头巾成为他们必备的覆盖发髻之物，又名“帻”，《仪礼》称：


“二十成人，士冠，庶人巾。”


《方言》记载了头巾的不同别名：


“自关以西，秦、晋之郊曰络头，南楚、江、湘之间曰陌头；自河以北，赵、魏之间曰幧头。”


古代称平民为“黔首”，并不是因为他们头发尚未变白，而是用黑布头巾裹头。“苍头”在战国时原指用青布裹头的军队士卒，汉代因为仆役戴青色头巾，也用此词来代指奴仆，后来才衍生出白头老人的含义。东汉末年，太平道首领张角等发动农民起义，以头裹黄巾作为标志，史称“黄巾军”。甚至在后世道教关于天界的传说里，值勤神将也都是“黄巾力士”。

 

原本地位低下的头巾，随着时间的推移逐渐从民间进入上层，和冠帽悄然融合。汉元帝“额有壮发”，发际线过低，王莽头秃，两人虽然面临的困扰不一样，解决方法却是相同的，都是用巾帻裹住头再戴冠。好在这时冠的形制变大了，可以盖住整个头顶。东汉后期，王公名士“以幅巾为雅”，“袁绍、崔豹之徒，虽为将帅，皆着缣巾”。这和老庄谈玄影响下的不拘礼节的社会风气有一定关系。东汉郭泰（东汉时期名士）的品学为时人所重，一日外出遇雨，折起头巾一角垫着遮雨，人们争相仿效，都将头巾的一角折起来，称为“林宗巾”（郭泰字林宗），侧面体现出头巾在各阶层的普及。


现在熟悉的“帽”字，原本写作“冃（mào）”，含义为“小儿及蛮夷头衣也”，字形也是一顶帽子的形状。北方少数民族的御寒帽子古名“搭耳帽”，用牛皮制作，以羔毛络缝，能够护住头顶和耳朵。赵武灵王实施“胡服骑射”改革，以绫绢仿制搭耳帽，取名“爪牙帽子”，作为赵国军服。汉乐府诗《陌上桑》中，有“少年见罗敷，脱帽著帩头”的诗句，侧面反映出那时的帽子还不登大雅之堂，不如头巾体面。

 


两晋南北朝时期，“帽”已经不局限于便帽，开始具有和“冠”相近的含义。如南朝梁皇帝平时习惯戴白纱帽，百姓戴杂色纱帽，南朝宋的官员戴乌纱帽，隋朝也沿袭此制。但冠与帽毕竟有所区别，即使在古人的口语中帽逐渐取代了冠，诗中“冠”“帽”可为互文，“羞将短发还吹帽，笑倩旁人为正冠”，但在成语中也很难完全替换，比如“怒发冲冠”可以形容愤怒时头发上竖的形态，但“怒发冲帽”别人根本看不见。

 

古代关于帽子最著名的典故之一“侧帽”，来自西魏“八柱国”之一的独孤信，他是北周明帝宇文毓、隋朝开国皇帝隋文帝杨坚的岳父，也是唐高祖李渊的外祖父，在历史上实在罕见。独孤信以“美风仪”著称，在秦州做官时，有一天出城打猎，日暮时骑马入城，帽子被风吹斜了也来不及扶正。很快，全城人都学着他的样子戴帽子，成为独特的风景。《新唐书》称：“天宝初，贵族及士民好为胡服胡帽。”长孙无忌曾用乌羊毛作浑脱毡帽，“浑脱”意为盛装乳酪的牛皮囊。产于扬州的毡帽可能是模仿“胡帽”的创制，唐宪宗时，御史中丞裴度曾遭李师道派来的杀手刺杀，头上挨了一刀，质地厚实的扬州毡帽救了他一命，仅受轻伤。唐代舞女表演从西域传来的“柘枝舞”时，头戴尖顶帽，帽侧缀有铃铛，装饰珠子图案，又名“珠帽”。士人穿便服时多以“乌帽”和“白衣”搭配。



早期头巾的包头方法是从脑后拢起，在前额打结，类似近代陕北农民在头上系手巾的方法。汉代梁冀对头巾进行改制，从前向后包头，折起上角，叫“折上巾”，到北周武帝时，将折上巾裁出四脚（四带），二带系脑后下垂，二带反系头上，发展成巾的一种新类型“襆头”。

 


幞头问世后，经历了材质从软到硬的演变，外形也从头巾变得越来越像帽子。在电影《长安的荔枝》里以反派身份出现的宦官鱼朝恩，曾任“天下观军容宣慰处置使”，专典神策军，权宠一时，其头饰“军容”幞头，时人争效，称为“军容头”。流行头饰“军容头”，应当就是这种权势的视觉展现。



五代末期，更加轻巧的漆纱幞头得以流行，宋代已经直接称幞头为“幞头帽子”。幞头系在脑后的带子，原有“短脚”“长脚”的区别，后来又改制为用竹木或铁丝为骨的硬脚，可以方便地将它们固定成各种形状：平直展开、弯曲、交叉、一上一下、两脚偏向同一侧……显得很有创意。“展脚幞头”是士大夫阶层的象征，伸出的两根长脚可以有效防止官员上朝时交头接耳。明代官员戴的乌纱帽成为幞头最后的一个变体，帽主体由前低后高的两部分组成，称为前屋和后山，后山下固定着两个外伸的帽翅，和幞头帽子的结构相似。

 


元代，在蒙古族服饰的影响下，帽子的种类更为多样，“官民皆戴帽，其檐或圆，或前圆后方，或楼子，盖兜鍪之遗制也”。明代皇帝和官员继承了“直檐大帽”的传统，普通人常戴六瓣合缝的瓜皮小帽，别名“六合一统帽”。《金瓶梅》中，富甲一方的西门庆在送人出门时说：“你休怪我不送你，我戴着小帽不好出去。”体现出小帽在当时通常象征庶民身份。

 


在帽子流行的同时，头巾也在同步使用，明代士人服饰以“方巾圆领”为主要特点，儒巾通常以黑绉纱为表，漆藤丝或麻布为里，质坚而轻。秀才以上士绅惯戴“四方平定巾”，它是一种四角黑漆方巾，据说是杨维祯见明太祖朱元璋时所戴。太祖问：“此巾何名？”杨维桢回答：“此四方平定巾也。”朱元璋认为此名甚佳，便诏令天下士人戴此巾。

 

冠巾之下，明代男性还要戴一种“基本款”束发网巾，以黑丝结成，形如渔网，上有总绳拴紧，意为“一统山河”。据传也是明太祖看到道士以茧丝结网约发后，询问缘由，得知“裹以头，则万发俱齐”，下旨要求推广的。从达官贵人到生员吏隶，都必须在冠下戴网巾，催生了专门的市场，南京有地名“网巾市”，就是制作和出售网巾的集散地。明朝灭亡后，时人笔记中记载了一位在福建邵武被捕的抗清者，坚持不改衣冠，从容赴死，临刑前让仆人用笔墨在他额上画了网巾，表示不忘明制。清将杨名高问他姓名，他回答：“叫我‘画网巾’就可以了。”


清代由于男性发型特殊，剃过的头上更需要帽子挡风遮阳，方巾就无法再用了。官员的官帽用不同的“顶珠”体现官职高低，共有东珠、红宝石、红珊瑚、蓝宝石、青金石、水晶、砗磲（chē qú）、金和银9种。特别在清朝廷看来，产于东北地区松花江流域的东珠有着特殊的地位，一品官以下不得以此做顶戴，否则将以僭越罪论处。其实明代也有关于帽饰的制度，洪武六年（1373）曾规定：职官一品、二品的帽顶、帽珠用玉，三品至五品的帽顶用金，帽珠除玉外都可用，六品至九品帽顶用银，帽珠用玛瑙、水晶、香木。

 


在走向现代化的过程里

帽子曾经仍是国家规定的礼服

 

随着中国走向近代化、现代化的过程，帽子并不是在封建王朝覆灭后的一夜之间离开了人们的头顶，而是经历了较长的演变过程。辛亥革命后，伴随着政治、经济、文化的巨变，普通人的服饰、发型也不可避免地发生了变革。曾作为等级符号而存在的官帽、不同材质的帽顶珠，随着帝制的废除失去了社会基础。在西方潮流的冲击下，与我国传统冠帽不同的西式礼帽甚至一度成为国家规定的礼服组成部分。

 

在欧美的社会传统里，帽子曾经同样和穿着者的地位紧密相关，并衍生出了相关礼仪。一些流行段子称，西方男人戴礼帽，是因为中世纪的欧洲人不讲卫生，经常从城堡高处往下倒垃圾，高礼帽正好可以起到遮挡效果。实际上，这种高顶礼帽在18世纪末才出现。

 


1912年，中华民国临时参议院通过《服制案》，规定了男女礼服制度，其中男子礼服分为大礼服和常礼服两种，大礼服需搭配高而有檐的平顶黑色礼帽，常礼服需搭配较低而有檐的圆顶黑色礼帽。1929年，民国政府重新颁布《民国服制条例》，男子礼服在冬季搭配凹顶椭圆边黑色软礼帽，夏天则是平顶白色硬草帽。

 

尽管基于民国的实际，关于服制的规章并不能普及到全体民众，仍然对礼帽的流行起到了促进作用。头戴西式礼帽、身穿长衫或西服的成年男性，在老照片中定格成特有的“民国范儿”。学生常戴帽围较坚实的鸭舌帽，俗称“学生帽”。陈鸿年著《北平风物》中，写到自己在民国读书时流行的冬季穿戴：


“一条毛围脖儿，一件短大衣，一顶鸭舌帽。俏皮小伙儿不穿棉，耍的是这个漂亮劲儿！”


1938年，民国政府颁布了《学生制服规程》，规定小学、中学学生帽为圆形，大学学生帽为正方形。



为了凸显民族自豪感，政府要求礼帽的制作材料均为国货。市场的需求催生了制帽业的繁荣，各大城市都有专门经营帽子的老字号店铺，如“盛锡福”“马聚源”等等，现代人已经很难想象帽子生意也有过如此繁荣的气象。在北平前门外鲜鱼口，相传有两家从清代开始经营的帽店开展过“logo商战”，一家帽店在门口摆了个捧着元宝的黑漆木猴做招牌，见它生意兴隆，旁边的一家店也摆了个一模一样的木猴，借以迷惑顾客。


与西式礼帽相映成趣的是，广大农民仍然习惯戴清代沿袭下来的瓜皮帽、毡帽，夏季劳动时戴草帽。鲁迅笔下，结实耐用的“乌毡帽”是绍兴农民必备之物——


“是一种黑色的、半圆形的东西，将那帽边翻起一寸多，戴在头上的。”


闰土从小戴到老，阿Q没钱的时候就用乌毡帽抵押几个钱喝酒。陕北农民习惯用白羊肚手巾缠头代替帽子，既能遮挡黄土高原的漫天尘土，又方便解下来擦汗。



民国时期，军人、警察、护士等职业的制服在西方影响下配备了专门的制式帽子。1910年，清末“新军”模仿德国普鲁士风格设计了军服和大檐军帽，北伐战争时期，不同军阀势力的军帽常有模仿日式军帽造型，但源头仍然是西方的军帽。抗战时期，国民党部队佩戴的仿德国式军帽前面有两枚扣子，用来固定护耳，在国共合作阶段，八路军戴的帽子也是这一款式。解放战争期间，国民党军配发仿美式军帽，在相关题材的影视剧里经常有所体现。民国警服样式经历多次改变，配备的帽子主要沿袭了德国、日本等国家的制式。


在1928年召开的全国护士代表大会上，规定护士统一佩戴白色燕尾帽作为行业标志，这一制式一直流传到当代，有些高校的护理专业还会在学生进入临床实习或毕业时专门举办授帽仪式。


现在的中国男性为啥大多不戴帽子了？

 

新中国成立后，帽子经历了一段流行期。但和过去的时代最大不同的是，除了军人、警察等职业规范和统一了制服和对应的帽子外，国家层面并没有面向民众规定专门的“礼服”形制。尽管如此，大众的着装选择很自然地受到社会大潮的影响，帽子也不例外。

 

民国盛行的西式礼帽在1949年后逐渐退出了历史舞台，男性群体特别是城市居民群体中流行戴外形类似军帽的“解放帽”，灵感源于列宁在十月革命期间戴过的八角帽，也叫列宁帽，和当时的“干部服”“人民装”搭配协调。冬季，同样源自军人制服的护耳剪绒帽在北方几乎人手一顶，既保暖又显示出威武之气。因为雷锋最为人熟知的照片上戴着这种帽子，它又名“雷锋帽”。对军帽的推崇在20世纪60、70年代达到了顶峰，在那个特殊的历史时期，群众的服装款式、色彩趋于整齐划一，民谚称：“远看一大堆，近看蓝绿灰。”由于军人受到尊崇，绿军帽在此时最受欢迎，成为独特的身份象征而广受追捧，在反映“大院子弟”生活的影视剧里，身穿父兄军装、头戴军帽的年轻人骑着二八大杠（自行车的一种），在街头呼啸而过，囿于“出身”而没有资格戴的人只能望而生羡。

 


改革开放后，国外和港澳台影视剧的陆续热播，让观众见识到了风格更多的帽子。市场经济的繁荣为人们带来了更多的选择余地，城乡居民之间原本的落差可以通过购买力来弥补，民众对帽子的选择进一步趋于多样化，不再千篇一律。《平凡的世界》里，成为“农民企业家”的孙少安给自己置备了城里人穿戴的毛料制服和单帽，为的是更加自如地谈生意。进入90年代，港台明星影响下发型时尚的不断变化，也潜移默化地影响着人们对帽子的态度。“四大天王”火遍大江南北的时候，同款发型在年轻人里备受追捧，如果在精心打理的四六分“郭富城头”上扣一顶帽子，反而影响了帅气的外观。

 

而在这个大变迁的时期，需要佩戴统一帽子的行业却在增多。不仅军装和警服经历了数次变化，其他职业的帽子也逐渐走向统一化。比如，在20世纪70年代，工地施工者戴的“安全帽”还是柳条编的头盔，具有一定硬度和弹性，常常被工人扣过来当小凳子坐，但这种安全帽比较笨重，保护效果也难以实现，甚至有人因为不戴而发生了事故。80年代后，随着安全管理相关规章制度的完善，安全帽经历了塑胶材质、高密度聚乙烯材质、玻璃钢材质的不断演化，现在已经出现了带有智能芯片和物联网卡的智能安全帽，让安全系数再上一个台阶。中国传统厨师行业并没有戴帽子的习惯，1984年，中国成立了第一个厨师帽会组织，象征卫生的白色工作帽逐渐成为“官方认证”的标志，成为现在人们最熟悉的厨师形象。帽子越高、褶皱越多，代表等级越高。总厨、大厨佩戴29.5厘米高的厨师长帽，普通厨工的帽子高度仅有10.5厘米。这些职业帽向着规范化的演变，正是高速发展的中国社会现代化的缩影。

 



和“职业帽”的普及相映成趣的是，成年男性群体的“生活帽”少了。私家车、公共交通等便捷的出行工具，让人们的上班之路不再有风吹日晒之苦，不断提高的卫生条件和城市环境也减少了灰尘弄脏头发的烦恼，即使遇到降温，连帽外套也可以基本解决需要。可能只有头发稀疏的老年人，还在降温后保留着戴帽子的习惯。农民虽然劳动时还会戴帽子，这一习惯也在悄然发生着变化。有关报道称，近年来陕北黄土高原全面绿化，原本农民出门必扎的白羊肚手巾正在宣告“退休”。

 


不过，时尚常常是轮回的。由于现代人在快节奏的生活和较大的工作压力下常常面临脱发的困扰，或许某个时候需要继续重拾帽子来修饰外表也未可知。

 

参考文献：

1、蒋栋元.帽子民俗的文化解读[J].西北民族大学学报(哲学社会科学版),2005(01).

2、牛佳鑫.古代头衣常用字“帽、冠、巾”的演变研究[J].文教资料,2017(12).

3、滕维雅.帽文化之瑰宝──巾[J].上海大学学报(社会科学版),1997(03).

4、钟林轩.冠巾纵横谈──历史剧服装设计杂谈之一[J].戏剧(中央戏剧学院学报),1994(03).

5、骆文.巾帽 头上的“革命”[J].中华遗产,2015,(第2期).

6、刘小方.中华冕冠与欧美自由帽——帽子旅行记[J].百科知识,2021(13).


*本文系“国家人文历史”独家稿件，欢迎读者转发朋友圈。



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END
作者 | 瑶华
编辑 | 胡心雅 
 主编 | 周斌
排版 | 刘是琪（实习）
校对 |  火炬 李栋 张斌 古月 戈雨
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“在看”的永远18岁~

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", @@ -4295,6 +4273,28 @@ "hash": "3f63c245f02ccafb6fdb15b12ce12504", "highlights": [] }, + { + "title": "2025神仙级Python入门教程(非常详细)，从零基础入门到精通，从看这篇开始", + "description": "一、初聊Python1.为什么要学习Python？", + "content": "None", + "category": "", + "link": "https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/KIshqmCph6wvRjTcpEey0g", + "creator": "python开发工程师", + "pubDate": "Sat, 09 Aug 2025 07:45:00 ", + "enclosure": "https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_jpg/Nc53lZXDjZxVicDpvyBoAac1BHibe0kYqSfC97CVhxX5Ogx1aYXxYBicKkfQ5VXrpRtFtTlN0UqicNJhCC2w6fISMg/0?wx_fmt=jpeg", + "enclosureType": "image/jpeg", + "image": "https://mmbiz.qpic.cn/mmbiz_jpg/Nc53lZXDjZxVicDpvyBoAac1BHibe0kYqSfC97CVhxX5Ogx1aYXxYBicKkfQ5VXrpRtFtTlN0UqicNJhCC2w6fISMg/0?wx_fmt=jpeg", + "id": "2247511510_1", + "language": "", + "folder": "IT技术", + "feed": "python开发工程师", + "read": false, + "favorite": false, + "created": false, + "tags": [], + "hash": "bf0c4db14feddd6e5f5f118492ffe9cc", + "highlights": [] + }, { "title": "太哇塞了42个Python办公自动化真实案例，让你成功封神！（附源码）", "description": "随着Python的不断发展，越来越多的开发者将开始使用它来构建一些令人惊奇和资源丰富的项目。", @@ -5109,28 +5109,6 @@ "hash": "5a540d3c8eccf47524b14a90ec98620e", "highlights": [] }, - { - "title": "006WORLD - Briefly", - "description": "

UNITED STATES

\n

Key adviser named to Federal Reserve Board

\n

US President Donald Trump announced on Thursday he had chosen Stephen Miran, chair of the Council of Economic Advisers, to serve in the just vacated seat on the Federal Reserve Board until Jan 31, 2026. Meanwhile, the Trump administration will continue to search for a permanent replacement for the vacancy left by Fed Governor Adriana Kugler, whose resignation was due to be effective on Friday. He served as an adviser on economic policy for the US Department of the Treasury from 2020 to 2021. The Board of Governors of the Federal Reserve System is designed to have seven members, who are nominated by the US president and confirmed by the Senate.

\n

VENEZUELA

\n

Washington's bounty for Maduro condemned

\n

The Venezuelan government on Thursday condemned the announcement made by US Attorney General Pam Bondi to offer a reward of $50 million for information leading to the arrest of President Nicolas Maduro. Venezuelan Foreign Minister Yvan Gil described the action as a "crude political propaganda operation". The minister denounced that the offer lacked legal and moral support, serving the political interests of the extreme right in the US and Venezuela. He recalled that Venezuela has condemned covert operations and destabilizing plots by the US, many of which have been foiled by the security agencies.

\n

", - "content": "

UNITED STATES

\n

Key adviser named to Federal Reserve Board

\n

US President Donald Trump announced on Thursday he had chosen Stephen Miran, chair of the Council of Economic Advisers, to serve in the just vacated seat on the Federal Reserve Board until Jan 31, 2026. Meanwhile, the Trump administration will continue to search for a permanent replacement for the vacancy left by Fed Governor Adriana Kugler, whose resignation was due to be effective on Friday. He served as an adviser on economic policy for the US Department of the Treasury from 2020 to 2021. The Board of Governors of the Federal Reserve System is designed to have seven members, who are nominated by the US president and confirmed by the Senate.

\n

VENEZUELA

\n

Washington's bounty for Maduro condemned

\n

The Venezuelan government on Thursday condemned the announcement made by US Attorney General Pam Bondi to offer a reward of $50 million for information leading to the arrest of President Nicolas Maduro. Venezuelan Foreign Minister Yvan Gil described the action as a "crude political propaganda operation". The minister denounced that the offer lacked legal and moral support, serving the political interests of the extreme right in the US and Venezuela. He recalled that Venezuela has condemned covert operations and destabilizing plots by the US, many of which have been foiled by the security agencies.

\n

", - "category": "", - "link": "https://mobile.chinadaily.com.cn/cn/html5/2025-08/09/content_006_68967061ed50ccabe151740f.htm#006WORLD", - "creator": "", - "pubDate": "Sat, 09 Aug 2025 00:21:05 +0000", - "enclosure": "", - "enclosureType": "", - "image": "", - "id": "", - "language": "", - "folder": "双语", - "feed": "ChinaDaily", - "read": false, - "favorite": false, - "created": false, - "tags": [], - "hash": "561d27c5ecb54b2b0cdc7d844da895e4", - "highlights": [] - }, { "title": "001FRONT - BITING, PLAYFUL — DARING COMEDIANS LET NEW GENERATION LAUGH AT ITSELF", "description": "
\n

Xie Xie is one of the youngest rising comedy stars. His material about high school propelled him to fame.

\n

Tang Xiangyu made her debut in 2021, and is now one of the most popular comedians in China.

\n

Audience members enjoy a live performance at an intimate venue on April 13. The China Association of Performing Arts says comedy performances are seeing the largest attendance growth at smaller venues nationwide.

\n

Xi Ha, a former athlete and flight attendant, now uses comedy to critique unrealistic social norms.

\n

Wang Xinbo believes comedy routines must have an internal logic in order to work.

\n

Audience members watch a show on April 13. Comedy performances are booming across the country, led by a new wave of stand-up comedians holding a mirror to society.

\n

On a cold winter night, Tang Xiangyu was cycling through the streets of Beijing, heading home after work. The winter chill had numbed her fingers, but her mind raced with ideas for new jokes. She couldn't ignore the sudden burst of inspiration.

\n

Despite the freezing temperatures, she stopped pedaling and pulled over. Her frozen hands struggled to take notes on her phone, but she was determined not to let the moment slip away.

\n

That spark of creativity in the middle of the frigid night was a turning point.

\n

At that moment, Tang realized comedy wasn't just something she was doing for fun. Her desire to make people laugh was so strong that she would put up with freezing hands just to capture a flicker of inspiration.

\n

Nearly four years later, she is one of the most popular stand-up comedians in China, touring the country and appearing in popular internet comedy shows.

\n

Stand-up comedy is gaining traction across China, a country where this particular art form is still relatively new.

\n

Major platforms, such as iQIYI and Tencent Video, have helped comedians like Tang bring their craft to millions, reaching a far wider audience than anyone had previously imagined.

\n

Express yourself

\n

As China's younger generation embraces diverse global entertainment forms, comedy has become a vehicle for expressing individuality, challenging social norms, and poking fun at the pressure of modern life.

\n

"I remember the first time I got on stage and saw people in the crowd laughing," 31-year-old Tang recalled. "It wasn't just about the jokes anymore. It was about us, together, laughing at the things and experiences we have shared but never spoke about."

\n

Tang, who was born and raised in a rural area of Shandong province, graduated from a top Chinese university. She wrote articles for an online education platform, and was later promoted to manage online educational products.

\n

"I've always enjoyed creating and writing," Tang said. "I knew I had the ability to tell jokes and make my colleagues laugh. Even when I wrote stories about education, they always had a dash of humor."

\n

She had no idea what stand-up comedy was about until she attended a show in Beijing with friends.

\n

"What fascinated me was how performers could share funny yet insightful observations about the world without being offensive. It seemed like you could speak honestly, blending humor with social commentary, and make people laugh," Tang said. "That was the job I was dreaming about."

\n

On Dec 6, 2021, Tang made her debut as a stand-up comedian. The audience laughed along and she sensed a genuine connection with them. Her first taste of performing and being accepted was exhilarating.

\n

As she performed more open mics, however, she realized stand-up wasn't just about making people laugh — it was about sharing honest, personal stories. Her material began to explore societal pressures, the expectations placed on women, and the family dynamics she had always wanted to talk about.

\n

Her family didn't understand her desire to leave a stable career for something so uncertain. But for Tang, something inside her had changed — she was ready to take the leap.

\n

"It's an art form that allows you to speak your truth," she said. "The audience can tell when something is fake, and when it's real, they respond."

\n

As her career progressed, many fans began sharing their personal stories with her, sometimes treating her like a confidant. "It's the ultimate honor when someone tells me they trust me with their story," she said. "It makes me realize that stand-up can create a space where people feel safe enough to be themselves."

\n

Brave enough to try

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Comedy also takes topics once hidden in the shadows into the open and sparking public conversations.

\n

Fang Zhuren is a housewife who quietly endured an abusive marriage for 30 years before walking away and rebuilding her life through comedy. She infuses her performances with biting black humor and a distinct personal voice.

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"Domestic violence is such a heavy topic. Only someone who lived through it could make you laugh and ache at the same time. That's Fang Zhuren's gift — she makes the unbearable speakable," commented one of her fans on social media.

\n

Xi Ha, a former national-level athlete who later became a flight attendant, now uses her comedy to critique unrealistic beauty standards and public expectations. With sharp wit, she jokes about uncomfortable uniforms — short skirts, stockings, and high heels — and air passengers' unreasonable demands.

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"She's not just funny, she's fearless. She'll talk about beauty standards, the workplace revolution, and passengers' sense of entitlement — all while wearing heels and making you choke on your drink," wrote a fan.

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Xi said she chose to talk about these things because she thought they were funny. "I chose comedy because they (the subjects) really are funny, in a dark way," said Xi, who logged over 10,000 hours as a flight attendant, and participated in special aid missions like post-earthquake relief in Kathmandu, Nepal.

\n

"I don't think there's anything particularly special about what I do. I don't call it a 'female perspective'. What I observe isn't about gender — it's about society," she said, adding that it's not just the stereotype of flight attendants she wants to challenge.

\n

At 21, Xie Xie is one of the youngest rising comedy stars. He gained a loyal fan base after appearing on the second season of The King of Stand-up Comedy, which premiered on July 11 on iQIYI.

\n

His material about high school life — including strict rules, stern teachers, and awkward moments — instantly struck a chord.

\n

"I was overwhelmed by the audience response. After the show, I got more chances to perform not just in Beijing, but in cities across the country. It felt like a dream," said Xie, a second-year journalism student at Peking University, where he also heads the campus stand-up comedy club.

\n

The routine, written a year ago, won him first prize in a stand-up comedy competition.

\n

Xie was first introduced to comedy watching the 2012 TV program Tonight 80's Talk Show, which focused on the lives of young Chinese people. Later, he watched stand-up shows online, which inspired him to try performing himself.

\n

"Stand-up isn't just a performance, it becomes a way of life. The more you do it, the more your thinking changes. When something bad happens, my first thought is: 'Can I turn this into a joke?' That mindset helps me stay positive."

\n

Social observation

\n

Wang Xinbo, 32, also made his debut on the second season of The King of Stand-up Comedy, which helped him reach a wider audience.

\n

With a degree in applied mathematics and a job in cybersecurity sales, the performer, who goes by the stage name Xinbo, tried stand-up for the first time at an open mic in Shenzhen, Guangdong province, in 2022. Motivated by online and live shows — and the stress of his sales job — he wasn't looking for fame, just to release.

\n

"My first set was about the stereotypes my family had about sales jobs," he said. "It didn't go as well as I'd hoped. I realized quickly that this is harder than it looks."

\n

That humbling experience didn't stop him. Two and a half years later, Xinbo launched his first stand-up special. His understanding of comedy had transformed.

\n

"I used to think comedy was just about being funny. But it's a structured, logical system. Humor has its own internal logic," he said.

\n

"The most important thing is having a clear premise. Without that, no technique can save a joke. Creating punchlines depends on talent — but raising your hit rate takes constant practice."

\n

His material evolved from personal reflection to sharp social observation. His style today is known for its narrative voice and observational insight.

\n

"I mix storytelling with commentary," he said. "It gives the material more emotional weight."

\n

By 2023, Xinbo was performing regularly, and by May 2025, he was a full-time stand-up comedian.

\n

He believes comedy is everywhere, if you're paying attention.

\n

He once noticed shared bikes had cooling seat pads in summer. "But only the seat! As if your butt is the only thing that gets hot in July!" That absurd detail became a punchline.

\n

He has since performed across China, from big cities like Beijing and Shanghai to second-tier towns.

\n

Wang Jianguo, a veteran stand-up comedian and scriptwriter for The King of Stand-up Comedy, said the audience response since the show started has been overwhelming.

\n

"If we can spark even a flicker of shared reflection on something people are confronting or avoiding, then that's enough. That's the joy," he said.

\n

Wang said comedy is more than a joke; it's a lens and a mirror of society that acts as a pressure valve.

\n

"We all wake up and put on armor to face the world," he said. "It protects us, but it's uncomfortable. Sometimes we want to take it off and breathe — but even that can be hard. We may not be able to take it off for you — but maybe, just maybe, we can help soften it a little."

\n

Today's Chinese audiences are increasingly discerning. They want more than punchlines and slapstick. This growing demand has pushed comedians toward deeper storytelling and honest portrayals of personal and social dilemmas.

\n

"If we can help people feel a little less alone, a little more understood through laughter — then we've done our job," Wang said.

\n

Packed venues

\n

In 2024, among performances in smaller theaters, stand-up comedy saw the largest increases in both the number of performances and box office revenue, rising by 53 percent and 48 percent, respectively, according to a report by China Association of Performing Arts.

\n

In Shanghai, the number of stand-up comedy performances soared to 15,000 in 2024, a report released in May by major online ticket selling platform Damai found.

\n

Across the country in first-tier cities like Beijing, and Guangdong's Guangzhou and Shenzhen, as well as in emerging first-tier cities such as Hangzhou in Zhejiang province, Nanjing in Jiangsu province, and Xi'an in Shaanxi province, stand-up comedy shows in small theaters have been springing up. The number of performances continues to rise, and the audience base is steadily expanding, industry figures said.

\n

"People gathering together to joke with each other, turning both happy and unhappy moments into laughter, has become a common part of modern life," said Yin Hong, a professor at Tsinghua University's School of Journalism and Communication.

\n

"This is one of the key reasons why stand-up comedy shows have gained popularity in recent years," he said.

\n

"Unlike in the past, Chinese people now have more space and confidence, embracing humor that is kind, sarcastic, and playful. This shift is especially evident among the younger generation," he added.

\n

The professor said another reason for the surge in popularity of stand-up comedy shows is their focus on the lives of young people. Some of the current popular programs have not only featured professional comedians but also people from various fields, making the content more relatable, Yin said. They have "localized" the comedy themes, closely aligning them with relatable real-life topics and addressing social issues.

\n

chennan@chinadaily.com.cn

\n

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